The Khovd River lies in the Bayan-Ölgii province in the far west of Mongolia. Wide, fast-flowing and over 300 kilometres long – but mercifully clear of major rapids – this watercourse is a novice packrafter’s dream. Packrafting is the ethos of travelling on water using small and light inflatable rafts that can be carried in a backpack, making long distance portages between rivers feasible. The inconspicuous nature of these little boats allows them to be taken to almost any corner of the Earth with a minimum of fuss. Matt Traver and I tackled part of this river over the course of a week in 2012.